Quotazero.com

Lunghezza: 15 km
Tempo: 5.00 h (GPS)
Dilsivello: 860 m (GPS)
Tempo: 5.20 h (cronometro)
Dislivello: 670 m (altimetro barometrico)

Questo anello si svolge sull’ubac della bassa val Varaita, tra 550 m e 1050 m di quota. È stato ideato e segnato dalla Proloco, con frecce rosse, presenti in genere agli incroci e in pochi altri punti. È percorribile sia a piedi che in MTB (c’è un singolo breve tratto non ciclabile), in quanto si svolge in buona parte su ampie piste. Allego la traccia GPS, visto che sui canali della proloco non è presente e il loro schizzo è impreciso in un paio di punti; peraltro le indicazioni sul terreno sono più che sufficienti a non perdersi. Segnalo inoltre che lunghezza e dislivello indicati sui loro documenti sono superiori a quelli riscontrati da me. Sulla cartina Fraternali il tracciato non è riportato e mancano anche alcuni tratti di sentiero o piste utilizzati.
L’ambiente attraversato è una zona rurale di castagneti e prati quasi del tutto abbandonata daile attività agro-silvo-pastorali. In parte è stata convertito in zona residenziale della vicina pianura o di seconde case, con recuperi edilizi raramente congruenti con l’originaria architettura rurale. Anche le vie percorse sembrano essere in buona parte percorsi aperti con la ruspa e solo sporadicamente sentieri storici. A me complessivamente l’aspetto paesaggistico ha trasmetto un’impressione di tristezza (nonostante molti begli esemplari di castagno), a cui hanno fatto da contrappunto il canto incessante degli uccelli nel bosco e il verde sfolgorante e le fioriture della vegetazione primaverile.

Parcheggio all’ingresso del paese e passo sotto le tettoia del mercato, nella piazza dove ci sono anche la chiesa, e la strana casa dall’architettura originale, con i loggiati e l’accenno di torre circolare. Cambio l’acqua con quella della fontanella e seguo le indicazioni per l’anello delle 7 chiesette, che qui coincide con quello più breve delle 4. Imbocco un sentiero che corre in quota verso est, parallelo alla valle, da cui godo qualche scorcio sul paese, prima di immergermi in un fitto bosco. Passo da un punto in cui ci sono dei tronchi vestiti da specie di tubi di tessuto e delle bandiere di preghiera tibetane, con riferimento a un significato simbolico che in gran parte mi sfugge. Il sentiero diviene sterrata e anche struscio dei venaschesi, a giudicare dalle numerose panchine. Arrivo alla cappella di san Firmino, che ha un porticato che copre anche la strada, forse per il riparo dei viandanti. Molte delle chiese che vedrò oggi hanno un portico, probabilmente per l’elevata piovosità delle zone prealpine. Lascio il sentiero delle 4 chiesette, che sale sulla destra, e proseguo in discesa, accanto a un cesso campale modernizzato con la tazza in ceramica, sotto ad alcuni grandi tigli, che probabilmente a breve fioriranno e profumeranno. Attraverso le semplici case di Raffana e imbocco una strada asfaltata che risale una valletta, restando nei pressi del rio. La stradina è molto secondaria, ma ciò non ha impedito a una rana di finire schiacciata sotto un mezzo; una chiocciola invece è ancora viva. La lascio quindi per un sentiero, che sale ripido tra boschi e prati, passando accanto a un fienile abbandonato ma ancora integro. È bordato di alberi monumentali (castagni, pioppi, ciliegi) e anche da muri a secco coperti di muschio. Il canto degli uccelli è continuo e sento anche il primo cuculo della stagione. Mi ricongiungo al sentiero delle 4 chiesette e confluisco successivamente in varie piste, sempre più importanti. L’ultima è un’ampia sterrata che corre in quota, dove ci sono legna accatastata e macchinari per la movimentazione. Termina su una strada asfaltata, che un cartello di avviso segnala come trafficata, in corrispondenza della cappella dedicata alla Madonna del Bernè. Sulla facciata c’è una curiosa scritta in latino misto forse a occitano o francese, che richiama l’intervento benefico del divino. All’interno si vede una pala d’altare con forse Maria che va a trovare Elisabetta, madre di Giovanni il Battista, che riecheggia la scritta sopra la porta. Dalla chiesa vedo un po’ di panorama lontano, nella forma di una cava, di cui odo i rumori.
Seguo l’asfalto per pochi metri e imbocco quindi un sentiero, che ne taglia i tornanti e presto diventa pista scavata con la ruspa, che passa prima nel bosco e poi per un grande prato, affrontato per la massima pendenza. Mi ricongiungo a un sentiero CAI e al valle Varaita Trekking e raggiungo Quaglia, dove ci sono una bella casa moderna con un grande glicine e altre ricavate da edilizia tradizionale, con rifacimenti moderni. Ai margini c’è un pilone votivo deteriorato. Intravedo la punta imbiancata di fresco del Monviso, che sta per essere inghiottita dalle nuvole. Uscito dalla frazione, dopo un rimboschimento di abeti rossi lascio proseguire in salita i segnavia CAI diretti a Madonna di Peralba, a cui arriverò facendo un altro giro, più ampio, e seguo una traccia in piano sempre meno evidente, specie dove aggira una zona piena di rami fini accatastati; riesco a rimanere sul percorso anche grazie ai segnavia, qui più frequenti. Mi avvicino all’asfalto e lo costeggio su una pista erbosa appena accennata, che forse era una mulattiera storica, come pare dalla presenza di un muro di sostegno a secco e un’edicola votiva in eccellente stato, chiaramente restaurata da poco. È dedicata al Sacro Cuore di Gesù e sui lati esterni ha sant’Antonio Abate, protettore del bestiame e quindi molto popolare nelle zone rurali, e credo san Girolamo (lo riconosco dal cappello vescovile ai suoi piedi), autore della Vulgata, la traduzione della Bibbia in latino, che rimase la versione ufficiale delle Chiesa Cattolica per secoli. In basso sono invece raffigurate le anime dell’inferno, tutte donne. Scendo sulla strada asfaltata in corrispondenza di una ginestra spinosa fiorita. Lungo l’Alta Via delle Cinque Terre, a una quota di poco inferiore, l’avevo vista fiorita tre mesi fa: che differenza di clima, appena mezzo grado di latitudine più a nord.
Seguo la strada, con vista sulla pianura, dove è aumentata tantissimo la foschia e da cui si stanno addensando le nuvole. Arrivo a Bricco, un gruppetto di case con una grande chiesa dedicata alla natività di Maria costruita a monte delle case. Salgo e sul prato antistante trovo una bella fioriture di trifoglio, sulla facciata una lapide in memoria dei caduti nella Grande Guerra, davvero tanti per un borgo così piccolo. Poco a monte intercetto una pista che mi porta a un allevamento di capre, da cui proviene un profumo celestiale. Fa anche vendita diretta, ma nello zaino un formaggio fresco non arriverebbe a stasera. Saluto una bambina, che mi fa segno di fare silenzio, perché è impegnata in un agguato a una persona che lavora dentro un locale. Il sentiero sale a un prato pieno d’acqua, dove ci sono molte lumache che devo fare attenzione a non schiacciare. Confluisco sul sentiero CAI per Peralba, dove trovo le indicazioni per un bar, da cui passerò al ritorno. Inizio ora un lungo traverso nel bosco, in lieve salita. Passo per un gruppo di casupole in rovina, senza nome sulla mia carta, dove vedo una volpe, che al mio arrivo si dà alla fuga, e poi proseguo doppiando alcune dorsali, passando anche per un bel castagneto da frutto, cresciuto tra grandi massi. Arrivo a un gruppetto di case desolato, dove imbocco una sterrata che in pochi minuti mi porta alla chiesa della Madonna di Peralba. È una grande chiesa in pietra, dall’architettura essenziale, costruita dove una dorsale spiana, ai margini di un prato di recente pascolato dalle vacche. Al suo capo opposto c’è un’edicola votiva, intorno degli chalet per le vacanze. Mi vado ad accomodare sulle panche sotto il pronao a mangiare il primo panino, anche se non sarebbe ancora ora di pranzo, ma ho fatto colazione presto e ho già fame. Non riesco a vedere dentro la chiesa, perché le finestre sono chiuse da scuri. Al margine sud del prato c’è una di quelle strutture a tubi, che si trovano anche alla Madonna della Betulla, che consentono di riconoscere gli elementi del paesaggio, guardando dentro il tubo che porta un etichetta con il relativo nome. Da questa apprendo che si vedrebbero l’Argentera e il Matto, se non ci fosse tutta questa foschia e i cumuli non avessero coperto buona parte del cielo e avvolto tutte le montagne: la luce è tipicamente primaverile, che qui è la stagione più piovosa e instabile dell’anno. All’arrivo ho anche sentito un tuono, ma è stato un falso allarme.

Dopo più di un’ora di relax, in cui ho anche tentato invano di assopirmi, riprendo a camminare nell’aria frizzante. Seguo la strada asfaltata, passando tra moderne case sparpagliate, quali di vacanza, quai abitate tutto l’anno. Questo posto, pur essendo sull’ubac, a sud non è chiuso da alti monti, per cui deve essere solatio anche in inverno. Raggiungo il bar che avevo trovato indicato precedentemente, che è una struttura moderna in legno con ampie vetrate, pensata per i ciclisti, con una vista strepitosa sulla pianura. Uno striscione ne annuncia una riapertura per quest’anno, dopo una avvenuta lo scorso. Certo che, visti gli esigui spazi interni, dovranno rielaborare i piani. Dallo chalet parte un pendio prativo, alla cui base un gruppetto di vacche bianche sdraiate sta ruminando. A monte della strada c’è invece un allevamento di maiiali. Proseguo in discesa fino a Monge, dove lascio la strada sulla destra seguendo anche delle indicazioni CAI, ma non per Lussia, mia prossima meta, per cui fanno invece passare da Quaglia (dalla cartina deduco che è il sentiero lasciato subito oltre Quaglia). Superato un crocevia di piste, dove lascio i segnavia CAI e proseguo dritto, in quello che era un castagneto da frutto divenuto bosco misto. Ritrovo segnavia CAI, passo da una ceduazione con rimboschimento e noto dei muri a secco a margine della pista, a segnalare che forse questo era un percorso storico. Raggiungo un prato, dove sono fioriti dei narcisi. Qui svolto a sinistra e prendo a scendere per la massima pendenza lungo una pista ripida, abbastanza fangosa. Tuttavia è una quisquilia per chi ha percorso la Via degli Abati dopo una primavera piovosa ed è stato temprato dal fango appenninico, perché qui sotto c’è il solido, che infatti emerge nel tratto più ripido ad eroso. Quando finalmente trovo dei prati, capisco che manca poco alle case, che infatti fanno capolino tra la vegetazione. Nella frazione c’è una casa a due alti piani, che all’esterno presenta una grande colonna tonda simile a quelle che si vedono a Bellino o in val Maira, mentre per il resto si tratta di casette ristrutturate con estetica moderna. In un cortile, da cui sento provenire del rumore di stoviglie, c’è pure una piscinetta.
Ritrovo il sentiero delle 4 chiesette. Fuori dal paese, abbarbicato su un poggio da cui poi il pendio scende molto ripido, c’è un cavallo desolato, senza un prato per poter correre, e delle arnie attorno a cui brulicano e ronzano le api. Sul fondo fangoso della pista vedo orme di cinghiali. Raggiungo un gruppo di baite diroccate, costruite attorno a una stretta dorsale in un punto in cui spiana. Sono quasi tutte dirute da tempo. Solo una è stata rifatta in anni più recenti, con intonaco ma mantenendo una congruenza stilistica, ma è anch’essa abbandonata. Poco più avanti, su un poggio artificiale, prima che la dorsale si inabissi, c’è la grande cappella di Sant’Antonio. È molto ben tenuta, dipinta di fresco in giallo e arancio. Ha una campana, che potrebbe essere suonata, perché il campanile è aperto in basso e la corda è raggiungibile. Amo però il silenzio dei boschi. Sulla facciata è dipinta una Madonna con Bambino, insieme a sant’Antonio e un altro santo, anch’egli in abiti monacali, accarezzato da Gesù Bambino; sopra l’altare c’è un dipinto simile. Dal lato esterno fuoriesce un camino metallico senza un filo di ruggine, mentre dall’alto scende un filo elettrico con una presa industriale, forse perché ci sono dei panelli solari. Nei dintorni ci sono per lo più castagni, ma anche querce, un ciliegio, un pioppo bianco, e due pini (non so di quale specie) e verso le case c’è anche un piccolo rimboschimento di abeti rossi.
Dalla chiesa la traccia aggira i ruderi e va a innestarsi sul sentiero che li aveva attraversati. È un bel sentiero, che corre in quota e supera un primo impluvio in una bella faggeta, poi scende a un impluvio più incassato, con un ripido tratto sistemato di recente con gradini in legno e corrimano in fune metallica. Un ponticello di legno, costruito dalla pro loco l’anno scorso, scavalca la confluenza tra due rii, che scendono con amene cascatelle e rapide, tra rocce e felci. Il sentiero rimonta il versante opposto e diventa una pista erbosa che sale gradualmente. Incontro una baita e delle zone pianeggianti invase dalla boschina, forse ex-coltivi. Mi faccio poi affascinare da alcuni grandi castagni. Raggiungo Bonelli, con alcune casette rustiche minimamente recuperate e, costeggiando un possente muro a secco che sorreggeva i suoi coltivi, arrivo a un’edicola votiva. Sul lato interno, santa Lucia non tiene in mano il piattino con gli occhi, ma un’ogiva color carne con due occhi che puntano lo spettatore con sguardo minaccioso; sembra un Polifemo a due occhi. Raggiungo quindi un lussureggiante prato fiorito con un noce nel mezzo, dove trovo il sentiero CAI tra Venasca e Valmala, che seguirò fino al termine dell’escursione.
Poco oltre raggiungo la cappella di sant’Anna, che nel’Ottocento fungeva anche da scuola per i bambini dei dintorni, ai tempi del primo obbligo scolastico. Anch’essa ha il suo porticato e il suo dipinto, dove mi sembra ci siano sant’Anna e san Gioacchino che fanno scuola a Maria bambina. Mi fermo a fare merenda, condividendo qualche frammento della mela con le numerose formiche. Vedo arrivare un signore solitario, che cammina con un bastoncino in mano e sembra sorpreso di vedere anima viva. Vedo anche una zecca passeggiare sul mio braccio, sollevando qualche timore per il resto del corpo, ma per fortuna l’esame serale non ne troverà altre. Intanto il cielo si è completamente coperto, ma senza minacciare pioggia. Ho visto l’ultimo sprazzo di sole a Sant’Antonio. Proseguo nel bosco seguendo una dorsale, tra alcuni grandi castagni, delle betulle e poi anche lungo un rimboschimento di larici. Arrivo ad affacciarmi sulla valle, che non vedo per il bosco ma di cui sento il fragore del Varaita in piena per lo scioglimento delle nevi in quota. Arrivo a Ponza, dove ci sono casette rustiche con rifacimenti opinabili. Qui lascio il sentiero delle 7 chiesette, che si allontana da Venasca e mi costringerebbe a un rientro su asfalto. Così perdo una chiesetta dedicata a san Sebastiano, ma non vi sono particolarmente devoto, perché nel genere preferisco i martiri di santa Cristina e san Pantaleone, più ritmici. Inoltre era più ritratto di Chiara Ferragni, aveva già abbastanza follower. Imbocco invece il sentiero che punta direttamente al paese e scende ripidamente nel bosco misto, senza particolare storia. Prima di arrivare alla chiesa, noto un bel cortile con porticato, color ocra. Vado poi ad ammirare l’interno dell’imponente chiesa settecentesca, a pianta ottagonale. Vi sta girando in tondo una rondine, che spero sappia come uscire. Torno poi alla fontana a riempire la borraccia di acqua da portare a casa. Qui un vecchio sta riempiendo varie bottiglie. Sulla strada del rientro, in mezzo a una zona industriale, vedo un chiosco che fa asporto, ma resisto alla tentazione e mi tengo la voglia per quando potrò bere il caffè in bar vero, in una tazzina vera e non in un bicchiere di carta in mezzo alla strada.

_________________
Finché mi sentirò ben saldo sulle gambe
mi basterà questa mazza nodosa.
Abbreviare la strada, perché?
Nel labirinto delle valli
perdersi, poi scalare quella rupe
dove eterna precipita, e schiuma, la sorgente:
questo mi godo, camminando!

Goethe, Urfaust

Dimenticavo la traccia GPS. dato che non posso allegarla, copiate il testo qua sotto in un file.kml

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_________________
Finché mi sentirò ben saldo sulle gambe
mi basterà questa mazza nodosa.
Abbreviare la strada, perché?
Nel labirinto delle valli
perdersi, poi scalare quella rupe
dove eterna precipita, e schiuma, la sorgente:
questo mi godo, camminando!

Goethe, Urfaust

Grazie per la traccia da ricopiare in formato .kml ma le mie limitate cognizioni di cartografia informatica non mi consentono di ricavarne nulla di utilizzabile.

Non è che la puoi tradurre in formato .gpx? Quello lo si può allegare.
Al limite anche un print screen della mappa con il percorso andrebbe bene.

_________________
"Non importa quanto vai piano ... l'importante è che non ti fermi".

Molto interessante.
E' una zona che solitamente "si passa in tromba" per raggiungere l'alta valle ma che invece vorrei esplorare non appena riapriranno le gabbie regionali, speriamo presto.

Sono sempre più affascinato dalle cosiddette "Terre di Mezzo".

_________________
"Non importa quanto vai piano ... l'importante è che non ti fermi".

Ecco il gpx. Per convertire i kml in gpx c'è questo sito: https://kml2gpx.com/

Ad ogni modo seguendo le indicazioni sul terreno non ti perdi di certo. Basta ignorare la cartina della proloco, che è imprecisa

Sempre lì vicino, un'amica mi ha parlato bene dei castagneti tenuti intorno ad Isasca, ma non ci sono ancora stato.

_________________
Finché mi sentirò ben saldo sulle gambe
mi basterà questa mazza nodosa.
Abbreviare la strada, perché?
Nel labirinto delle valli
perdersi, poi scalare quella rupe
dove eterna precipita, e schiuma, la sorgente:
questo mi godo, camminando!

Goethe, Urfaust

Grazie per il GPX e per il link.

E per la dritta dei castagneti di Isasca, dove non sono mai stato.
Sembra una zona molto interessante, con la possibilità di passare in valle Po scendendo per la Val Bronda, dove ho appena scoperto esistere un percorso Trek molto articolato. https://www.piemonteoutdoor.it/it/attiv ... a-trekking

D'altronde sono anni che non riesco nemmeno ad andare nel vallone di Gilba, perchè poi alla fine si va sempre a camminare altrove.
L'ho solo potuto vedere dall'alto del Monte Ricordone ...

_________________
"Non importa quanto vai piano ... l'importante è che non ti fermi".

Del vallone di Gilba ricordo il rombo delle moto che si sentiva da san Bernardo delle Sottole, quando ci passai in una domenica di giugno

Inviato dal mio moto g(7) power utilizzando Tapatalk

_________________
Finché mi sentirò ben saldo sulle gambe
mi basterà questa mazza nodosa.
Abbreviare la strada, perché?
Nel labirinto delle valli
perdersi, poi scalare quella rupe
dove eterna precipita, e schiuma, la sorgente:
questo mi godo, camminando!

Goethe, Urfaust

Ho poi percorso anche la variante breve (molto breve), il giro delle 4 chiesette. Per la maggior parte è sovrapposto a tratti di quello più lungo. Solo all'inizio, dopo la prima chiesa, se ne distacca per un tratto. In questo caso, consiglio di seguirlo e d evitare quello delle 7, che sta a lungo su asfalto. Le 4 va invece a visitare una vecchia cascina in rovina, che aveva delle belle archiettture, i tipici porticati con archi e colonne delle zone prealpine. Si tiene poi su belle mulattiere tra castagneti in disarmo, fino alla giunzione nei pressi delle meire Isaia. A fine giro, arrivati a Ponza, si può scegliere tra un sentiero più ripido a destra, che scende in paese, oppure uno più graduale a sinistra, che però costringe a un tratto di asfalto.

La giornata era fresca e umida e al pelo abbiamo scampato un acquazzone. Viste parecchie salamandre al rio e un cacciatore nei pressi di borgata Bonelli, un milnaese che abita lì durante i mesi più caldi.

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Finché mi sentirò ben saldo sulle gambe
mi basterà questa mazza nodosa.
Abbreviare la strada, perché?
Nel labirinto delle valli
perdersi, poi scalare quella rupe
dove eterna precipita, e schiuma, la sorgente:
questo mi godo, camminando!

Goethe, Urfaust

Madonna di Peralba by night, mentre la luna tramonta in alto



Un poco più tardi, senza luna. Se avete un'ottima vista, sotto la linea che congiunge il Grande carro e la Polare, si vede la cometa C/2022 E3 ZTF, ma è pressoché indistinguible dalle stelle

_________________
Finché mi sentirò ben saldo sulle gambe
mi basterà questa mazza nodosa.
Abbreviare la strada, perché?
Nel labirinto delle valli
perdersi, poi scalare quella rupe
dove eterna precipita, e schiuma, la sorgente:
questo mi godo, camminando!

Goethe, Urfaust